Laying Hens 101: Starting Up Your Flock
Learn about choosing, brooding, housing, and feeding laying hens!
Choosing Your Laying Hen Breed
Laying hens can be categorized into three main types based on their egg production and characteristics: high-production layers, heritage layers, and dual-purpose layers.
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High-production layers are hybrids developed for commercial egg farms and are bred to lay 250-300 eggs per year with excellent feed efficiency. These hens often have a shorter laying lifespan but are ideal for those prioritizing maximum egg output. Examples include the Isa Brown, White Leghorn, and Golden Comet, which are known for producing large, consistent eggs.
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Heritage layers are traditional, long-lived breeds that may lay fewer eggs per year (150-220 eggs) but often produce richer, more colorful yolks and thrive in free-range environments. They are typically hardier and more self-sufficient, making them a great choice for pasture-based systems. Examples include Ameraucanas, Welsummers, and Marans, which are valued for their beautiful blue, dark brown, or speckled eggs.
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Dual-purpose layers offer a balance between egg production and meat yield, making them ideal for small farms and homesteaders. These breeds lay a steady amount of eggs while also growing large enough for meat processing when their egg production declines. Examples include Barred Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, and Sussex, which are hardy, productive, and adaptable to various climates. We raise Barred Plymouth Rocks at Grandad Farms since they do well in the cold, heat, and are rarely broody. (Broody refers to a hen's natural instinct to sit on and incubate eggs, often becoming protective and stopping egg production during this period.)
We source our laying chicks from Dunlap Hatchery in Caldwell, ID and recommend them to Treasure Valley locals. Murray McMurray is a reputable online hatchery.
Brooding Your Chicks
If you’re starting with baby chicks, proper brooding is essential for their health and growth. Chicks need a warm, draft-free environment for their first few weeks. Instead of a traditional heat lamp, we recommend using a heated plate for brooding. Heated plates are safer, reduce the risk of fires, and provide a more natural heating experience for chicks. Chicks should be kept at around 95°F in their first week, with the temperature gradually lowered by 5°F each week. The heating plates we use do not have adjustable temperatures, so we raise the heating plates as the chicks grow bigger. Ensure the chicks have clean bedding, fresh water, and high-quality chick starter feed to support healthy growth. Instead of changing the bedding in the brooders, we add dry bark or fresh pine flakes/shavings on top of the used bedding. Removing the old bedding is unnecessary. We use water nipples on a hanging horizontal PVC pipe to keep the water clean. When we install the chicks in the brooder, we express a little water into the nipple cups and dip the beaks of 25% of the chicks so they learn where the water is. At Grandad Farms, we offer a 20% protein, non-GMO, corn-free, soy-free chick starter to give your flock a healthy start!
Shelters
​When setting up a home for your laying hens, there are two main options: a mobile coop with portable fencing or a stationary coop with a run and/or pasture. Both have their advantages, depending on your space, management style, and predator risks.
Option 1: Mobile Coop & Portable Fencing
For those looking to pasture-raise their hens and provide fresh forage daily, a mobile coop system—like Joel Salatin’s Millennium Feathernet—paired with portable electric netting is an excellent choice. The coop is mounted on wheels or skids, allowing you to move it regularly to fresh pasture, reducing parasite buildup and giving hens continuous access to new grass and bugs. Portable electric poultry netting keeps the flock protected while allowing them to roam freely within a designated area. This method works best on larger properties and helps improve soil fertility as the hens scratch and fertilize the land naturally.
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Option 2: Stationary Coop with Run or Free-Range Access
If you prefer a fixed structure, a stationary coop provides a safe, weatherproof shelter for your flock. It can be paired with either a secure, enclosed run or allow hens to free-range during the day, returning to the coop at night for protection. A well-designed stationary coop should have proper ventilation, nesting boxes, roosting bars, and predator-proof construction. If you choose to free-range your flock, be aware of potential predator risks and consider using guard animals or perimeter fencing to keep them safe.
Regardless of which option you choose, an automatic coop door can be a game-changer. These doors open at sunrise and close after dusk, so your flock is secured each night without requiring manual intervention. Both mobile and stationary coops can benefit from this time-saving and predator-proofing feature.
Feeding Your Laying Hens
Proper nutrition is essential for consistent egg production, strong eggshells, and overall hen health. Your chickens' dietary needs change as they grow, so it’s important to transition them to the right feed at the right time.
When to Switch from Chick Starter to Layer Feed
Chicks should start on a high-protein (20%) chick starter feed to support early growth and feather development. Around 16-18 weeks of age, when they are close to laying, transition them to a layer feed with 16-18% protein and added calcium to support strong eggshell formation. Switching too early can lead to kidney issues, while waiting too long may cause nutrient deficiencies as egg production begins.
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​Essential Supplements: Oyster Shells & Grit
Even with a well-balanced layer feed, hens need access to calcium supplements to produce strong eggshells. Oyster shells are the best natural source of calcium and should be provided free-choice in a separate dish, allowing hens to consume what they need. Grit (small stones) is also essential for digestion, especially for birds that free-range or eat whole grains.
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When To Feed Your Laying Hens
There are three main options: daily rationing, free-choice feeding, or fermented feed. Daily rationing involves providing a measured amount of feed each day, which helps prevent wasted food. Each adult chicken should receive approximately 1/4 to 1/3 pound (4-6 ounces) of feed per day. Free-choice feeding means keeping feed available at all times, letting hens eat as needed, which can be more convenient but may lead to more waste if not managed properly. We free-choice feed our laying flock. Another option is fermenting feed, which involves soaking it in water for 24-48 hours to create a probiotic-rich, easily digestible mash. Fermented feed improves nutrient absorption, reduces overall feed consumption by 15-20%, and can enhance gut health, but it is labor-intensive.
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Why Choose a Corn-Free, Soy-Free Feed?
Feeding your hens a corn-free, soy-free, non-GMO diet ensures a clean, natural source of nutrition without unnecessary fillers or allergens. Many small farms and backyard flock owners prefer this type of feed because:
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Healthier digestion – Easier on the digestive system and reduces potential inflammatory reactions.
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More nutrient-dense – Pea and sorghum-based feeds provide high-quality protein and energy without the need for corn or soy.
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Better for sensitive flocks – Some chickens thrive better without soy, which can affect hormone levels in poultry.
At Grandad Farms, we carry non-GMO, corn-free, soy-free layer feed to keep your hens happy, healthy, and producing superior eggs. Providing high-quality nutrition will ensure your flock stays strong, productive, and laying well throughout their best years!
Daily & Weekly Care Routine
Daily Tasks:
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Maintain feed and water
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Collect eggs
Weekly Tasks:
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Clean nest boxes
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Clean coop (if applicable)
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Move mobile coop (if applicable)
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Monitor egg production
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Top off oyster shells/calcium supplement
FAQs for New Flocks
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How long until my hens start laying? 5-6 months old.
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How long do hens lay eggs? Peak production lasts 3-4 years. We keep our hens for 3 years.
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Washed or unwashed eggs? We prefer unwashed chicken eggs which have a natural protective coating called the bloom or cuticle, that helps seal out bacteria and moisture, keeping the egg fresher for a longer period without refrigeration.
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How to get my chicken to lay clean eggs? Restrict access to the nesting boxes during the night, clean the area around the nesting boxes, and replace the nesting material in the nesting boxes.
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Why are the eggshells soft? Make sure that your chickens have access to a calcium supplement during their laying time of life. We free-choice feed oyster shells.
I hope that you have found this information to be helpful!
- Mark Ellison
Grandad Farms - your source for non-GMO, corn-free, & soy-free feed
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